Diashow mit Arbeiten an Rasiermessern /
Slideshow about my works to Razors
Einzelstücke und Raritäten
Here you find old original unused straight razors (NOS) made by manufacturers in Solingen which closed or stopped the production long time ago. If you look for any special straight razor please feel free and ask for, I will try to help you.
Beispiele von Grifferneurungen mit vers. Pins / Re-pined handles for example
Beispiele von Grifferneurungen mit traditionellen Griffen und Nieten / Re-pined handles for example with traditional handles and pins
DOUBLE DUCKLING RAZOR HONE SYSTEM
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the Double Duckling Razor Hone System. It will perform all the sharpening tasks needed to make your straight razor super sharp, and keep it that way for a great shave every time. It replaces the need to purchase expensive and often difficult to get wet stones, diamond paste, dedicated strops, and other sharpening paraphernalia. Furthermore, a properly kept razor using this system will remove very little metal to keep it sharp, so that your razor will last a lifetime with negligible wear. Simply learn to master the sharpening technique described in the instructions.
Preamble
A failure to properly sharpen a razor involves a number of factors. One is the razor itself. A good razor is made of high quality steel, and is hard tempered to be able to hold a very fine edge. Another factor is the sharpening media used. Obtaining the ultra fine edge required for a great shave involves the graded use of super fine abrasives that are not easily found. A 8,000 grit high quality water stone used with proper technique will bring a razor edge close, but not close enough for a really smooth shave. The extremely sharp smooth edge of a razor that shears rather than slices (as do knives), is accomplished in the final stage of honing by using very fine abrasives, 0.5 micron size grit or smaller. Unfortunately these are difficult to obtain outside of using expensive diamond pastes that are applied to a dedicated razor strop for final strop sharpening.
A common mistake that occurs when fine enough abrasives are not used, and is over honing leading to excessive blade wear. Over honing is the result of the idea that more honing will eventually get the razor sharp enough, which of course it won't. Only through stepwise honing using a proper sequence of finer abrasives will the desired results be achieved. Another common mistake made leading to failure in achieving desired results, is unwittingly fluctuating the hone angle while honing. Even very small deviations while honing will cause enough rounding of the razor edge to spoil it, or prevent it from reaching optimal sharpness. This is all very microscopic and invisible to the naked eye.
The Double Duckling Razor Hone System when used by properly, following the user instructions will solve these problems. Unique, and key to the system are two things. One is that provided are 3 thin sheets of 15, 5, and 0.5 micron super abrasives each bonded to a 3" by 11.5" strip of mylar plastic. These sheets are used individually, and are clamped to a wooden honing block. The second unique feature of the system is that the honing block surface is covered by a very thin piece of faux suede that gives the surface a slight bit of give, enabling full contact of the blade edge while honing. Also, since the inexpensively ($1.50 ea.) replaceable sheets of mylar are used, the honing block always remains perfectly flat for optimal results. Lets get started.
Instructions
Select the mylar sheet with the grit size needed to match the stage of sharpening. The hone block uses a clamping system for the sheets similar to a sanding block. The feet on the bottom of the block will grip the ends of the sheets firmly to the hone base. Simply loosen the screws on the underside of the base, tilt up the hone from the base and capture about the last ¼" of the sheet between the feet and the base on both ends and snug up the screws. Make sure that the sheet is mounted tautly across the hone block so that it won't bunch up in on the spine side of the razor blade as you hone. It takes a bit of practice to get proficient at this.
Before beginning to hone, first wipe some water on the sheet with a sponge, and keep the sheet slightly wet while you hone. The water flushes out metal debris from honing and helps to keep it from clogging the grit - similar to the action of water in a wet stone.
To begin the up stroke, hold the handle place the razor blade flat across the bottom end of the hone with the spine facing up. With your free hand, place two fingers on the blade pressing it gently, but firmly to keep it flat on the hone. Push about as hard as you would to seal the flap of a letter envelope after licking the glue strip. Push the blade forward to the top end of the hone maintaining even pressure. See Fig. A. Flip the blade over carefully ensuring not to undo your work by brushing edge of the blade on the hone while its being flipped. Begin the down stroke with the blade spine facing opposite way towards the bottom of the hone, and draw the blade back, maintaining the same even pressure. See Fig. B. Consistent, even pressure with blade remaining perfectly flat on the hone is crucial for success while applying up and down strokes while honing. The number of hone strokes required will depend on how much metal is needed to be removed
The 15 micron sheet is needed only if your razor is very dull, or you are starting from scratch, i.e. the edge has been completely ground off. The edge completely ground off is the result of having to grind out nicks, or when straightening the edge is needed. In those instances, carefully use a belt sander or the side of a bench grinder wheel to do the job. But, be careful not to ruin the blade temper by overheating. Continue to hone with the 15 micron sheet until an edge is formed that feels sharp, but not enough to easily shave hair on your arm. A strip of tape applied along the spine of the blade will protect the blade from scratching and wear during honing. Then, change to the 5 micron sheet and hone until you can shave the hair off your arm, but the hair offers just a little resistance before coming off. Finally, complete honing with the 0.5 micron sheet to put a very fine polish on the blade to reach ideal sharpness. Test again by shaving hair on your arm, but when your blade is sharp enough, the hair should just blow off. The hair shave test is just an indication of optimal sharpness. Try shaving your face the usual way, and if the blade is not quite there, hone again with the 0.5 micron sheet, say 50 -100 strokes and try shaving again.
